Multimeter to measure the zero fire line, no short-circuit, a close the gate on the jump, the light with the LED, the light.
LDE lights are generally composed of two parts: the switching drive power supply and the LED beads and light board.
The first situation is that the switching drive power supply internal electronic components quality problems and damage. Caused by the switching drive power supply to form a short circuit, power will trip. You can use a multimeter to test whether there is a normal working voltage and current to judge. Each kind of LED lights DC working voltage and current is different, usually in series and parallel to form a light disc.
The second situation is that there is a short circuit in the circuit board of the light disc, which causes the switching drive power supply to be damaged and the power supply will also trip.
Whether in the factory or home use LED lights, when encountered tripping, the usual situation will take the same new lamp to replace the old lamp. If the tripping is caused by a problem with the lamp, the tripping will be eliminated. This is a quick solution to the problem.
Of course, an air switch that operates at a current value less than the operating current of the LED lamp can also cause a trip. Lighting circuits that are already in operation, such as the one in this question, are beyond the scope of this discussion.
If it is a leakage circuit breaker, and there is no short circuit in the fire wire and zero wire, then it may be a leakage in the fire wire or zero wire, or it may be a leakage in the control circuit of a particular light or in the light fixture itself.
Was this not a problem in the past and it's just now appearing? Or did the power test fail to close the gate after the wiring was laid? Have you done any renovation work recently?
I've had a problem where a carpenter just happened to put a nail in the power wire because of a renovation. Because the electrical work was done at the same time as the carpentry work, after I laid the wires, the carpentry then carried out the renovation work, resulting in the above problem. After the completion of all electrical construction, power test, the result of leakage circuit breaker power, I heard elsewhere "pop" sound, the leakage circuit breaker then tripped.
"It's over." I thought, maybe the fire wire zero line short circuit. Take a multimeter a measurement, between the fire wire zero wire is not shorted. Thinking back carefully, every joint I handle very well ah? It won't short out.
Tried to close it again, and it still tripped. Again, it does not trip, but the light does not come on after a certain node, and there is no power to the socket. I think there is a leakage of electricity near this node, and I found that the wires have been completely broken due to several consecutive attempts to send electricity, so there is no electricity in the line after this point.
