How to use a multimeter to check if the refrigerator is leaking or short circuited
The situation mentioned can be caused by the following reasons:;
1. There is a phenomenon of "soft breakdown" in the "socket" circuit in your home. The method of judgment is to use a 500V tramegger (megohmmeter) to check the insulation between the "zero line" and the "live line" after the power outage, and the minimum insulation resistance should not be less than 0.5 megohms,
2. There is a slight leakage phenomenon in the "socket" circuit in your home. The inspection method is to remove the "zero line" and "live line" of the "socket" circuit in your home, and then connect it to any other switch with the same capacity in the distribution box. If this switch no longer trips after closing, then there is a slight leakage phenomenon in the "socket" circuit in your home. If this switch still trips after closing, it means there is a "soft breakdown" phenomenon in the "socket" circuit in your home.
3. There is a problem with the leakage protection switch of the "socket" circuit in your home. You can try replacing it.
Finally, I give you a piece of advice; Do not listen to those who do not understand electricity and blindly increase the switch capacity, otherwise there is danger. Is there an electrical appliance with a high load?
If not, then something must have a short circuit It's a problem with the wiring. There may be a short circuit somewhere in your home. Please have an electrician check it at home. That's because there's a short circuit somewhere!!! Check carefully if the switch is broken, short circuited, or leaking. I don't know if you have changed the circuit during renovation. If the cable is laid without a protective tube, this problem may occur. There are two possibilities for this problem: overload of the load; There is a short circuit in the circuit Personally, the biggest possibility is that there is a problem with the leakage switch, as you mentioned that the main switch also jumps. The reason for the main switch to jump is due to excessive current. If it is an electrical leakage, it will not jump for a few minutes. It should be in an instant: between 20ms and 40ms. I replaced the leakage switch and gave it a try. It may be due to poor internal insulation^_^
My family has encountered a similar situation before. The electrician came and tightened the wire ends in the distribution box, and it was okay. Easy?! First, unplug all the plugs. Then, unplug all the switches in the distribution box except for the main switch. Then, close each switch separately. If that switch jumps, it indicates that the problem is there. Do not close the switch that jumps like this. The other switches can be used. Then, find a professional to take a look If the socket is unplugged and trips, it indicates that it is not overloaded. Check if the trip switch is damaged, and then check if there is a short circuit in the circuit. Additionally, the wire is aging and leaking. Thunder also matters. Except for the main switch, all the opening switches are turned off and all electrical equipment is stopped. Check if the main brake will jump. Will: The main switch is broken, and the circuit in the distribution box is broken. No: Try opening again, closing each opening one by one. If that circuit jumps, it indicates where the problem is.
The key fault area is in the kitchen and bathroom. Equipment: washing machine, refrigerator, air conditioning, water pump. It is very likely that the wire was skinned, grounded, or short-circuited by mice and cockroaches. Then you need to carefully check and seek help from the power supply bureau to replace a thicker fuse if necessary
