Use a multimeter to check if there is no short circuit in the zero live wire and it will trip as soon as the switch is closed. The light is an LED one.
LDE lamps are generally composed of switch driving power supply and LED lamp beads and lamp panels.
The first situation is that the electronic components inside the switching drive power supply are damaged due to quality problems. If the switch driving power supply is short-circuited, the power supply will trip. You can use a multimeter to test whether there is normal working voltage and current to judge. The DC operating voltage and current of each LED lamp are different, and they are generally connected in series and parallel to form a lamp panel.
The second situation is that there is a short circuit on the circuit board of the lamp panel, causing the switch driving power supply to be damaged and the power supply to trip.
Whether it is an LED lamp used in a factory or at home, when it encounters a trip, it is usually necessary to replace the old lamp with the same new lamp. If the trip is caused by a problem with the lamp, the tripping phenomenon will be eliminated. This is a quick way to solve a problem.
Of course, if the operating current value of the air switch is less than the operating current of the LED lamp, it will also cause tripping. For lighting circuits that are already in operation like the one in this question, it is beyond the scope of the discussion.
Is the "gate" you use a leakage circuit breaker? Or an ordinary circuit breaker without leakage tripping? What is the rated current? How many LED lights did you bring?
If it is a leakage circuit breaker and the live and neutral wires are not short-circuited, then it may be that the live or neutral wires are leaking, or it may be that the control circuit of a certain lamp or the lamp itself is leaking.
Did this problem not exist in the past and only appears now? Or the power transmission test failed to close the gate after the line was laid? Has there been any renovation work recently?
I once encountered a problem where a carpenter happened to drive nails onto the live wires of power wires due to renovation. Because the electrical construction was carried out at the same time as the carpentry construction, after I laid the wires, the carpenters carried out decoration work, and the above problems occurred. After all the electrical construction was completed, the power supply test was carried out. As soon as the leakage circuit breaker was powered on, a "pop" sound was heard elsewhere, and the leakage circuit breaker tripped.
Tried it again and it still tripped. When it closes again, it won't jump, but the lights after a certain node will not light up and the socket will have no power. It is estimated that there is a leakage near this node. The inspection found that the wires there have been completely interrupted due to several consecutive power supply attempts, so there is no power in the subsequent lines here.
In response to the question asked by the questioner, how should we solve this tripping problem? It is recommended to turn off all light switches first (normally the switch controls the live wire), and then try closing them. If it still trips, it means two things first. First: the fault point is not on each light branch. Second: This is a no-load test and has nothing to do with the rated current of the switch. Focus on inspecting areas on the line where construction has recently occurred.
If you turn off all the light switches and then supply power, the switches will not trip. You can gradually turn on the switches one by one. If the switch trips when you turn on a certain light, then the problem lies in the control circuit of the light or the light. itself. Once the general scope of the fault point is determined, repairs will be much easier.
The troubleshooting method is the most commonly used method to repair this type of circuit fault, which can quickly determine the scope of the fault and shorten the repair time.
